Pricing for 2019 will be finalized right before Opening Day. The permitting process is restrictive to keep down the resale market, so all reservations are non-refundable and non-transferable. That means the reservation is only valid if the person named on the reservation is present at the Check-in Office in the Village of Supai (on the way to the campground) with photo ID - otherwise you will be truned away and have to hike back out.
We've outfitted many hundreds of visitors to Havasupai, so after you get your permit, or for any other backpacking or camping trip, check out our full line of gear options or just give us a call if you need assistance in selecting the right rental gear.
Freeze-dried food designed for backpacking trips is available in endless varieties, including desserts. Some of it is better than others; we stick to dried noodles and tomato-sauce selections which are apparently harder to screw up - we carry a few meal dehydrated options, and most outdoor stores have a selection.
However, since some dehydrated meals are a bit expensive, you can can consider making your own with an inexpensive dehydrator or shop the regular grocery store and find good substitutes. Here's some grocery suggestions:
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It's all about the bugs - bacteria, viruses, and other various nasties. Keep them at bay thru better personal and environmental cleanliness, and you'll feel better, smell better and be less likely to end up gut-wrenching sick. Hikers are usually knowledgeable about water contamination and proper treatment, but are less cautious about other sources of germs from food and waste - witness a trio of hikers all sticking their grubby hands into a bag of trail mix at break time. But just because you don't have a gold-trimmed faucet, a bidet and a garbage disposal at camp doesn't mean you can't keep yourself and your trail area reasonably clean when out in the woods. We've assembled some suggestions on the subject so you can be a friend to the woods - and to your tent mate.
Personal Hygiene
Going To The Bathroom
I've heard of hikers going as long as a week without "going" because of either being uncomfortable with the process, or too bashful of sorts to let nature take its course. No point getting your colon all up in knots over it; just emulate your cat, as we'll explain below.
First, on urination - not a problem for guys; the world is our bathroom. Do relieve yourself away from camp sites as the urine odor can remain for some time. Ladies have more difficulty, but are encouraged to either drip-dry, carry out the TP, or bury it where allowed by using a backpacker's trowel.
Second, there's actually a good-selling book titled "How to S#!+ in the Woods", but we'll try to condense that issue down to a few points:
1) Go off trail and at least 200 feet from any water source, including springs and streams.
2) Always carry a lightweight plastic backpacker's trowel when you hike for toilet purposes. Like your cat tries to, dig a hole 4-6 inches deep. If the ground is covered with snow, be sure to dig through the snow and create the cat hole beneath the topsoil - this can be labor-intensive if the ground is frozen.
3) Then just squat above it. This is the part novices fear the most, but actually results in much more natural and healthful elimination than sitting at a 90 degree angle on your home toilet. There are a couple of pointers - make sure you're really out of sight; squat with your rear downhill; hang on to a tree or your hiking stick for balance; and make sure your shirt or coat is lifted up in the back. After wiping with TP, get yourself even cleaner back there with moist towellettes - reduce chances of chafing and later discomfort.
4) After using the cat-hole, cover it and the TP with the soil you removed. Revert the site to its natural look by re-scattering leaves, rocks or pine needles over the top. Place a rock on top so the next person along doesn't step in it or animals try dig it up. Note - in many areas you must pack out the toilet paper, particularly in dry arid areas. Use sealable baggies for that. If fires are allowed, you can burn the TP; just make sure it's reduced to ash. Whatever you do, just don't be a contributor to Charmin Confetti - used toilet paper blowing in the wind or hung up in bushes as you stroll down the trail. Gross!!
5) Always follow with a good hand cleaning with waterless sanitizer or soap and water.
6) Keep your trowel as clean as possible - wipe off on grass or sand or wash off after each use. Keep it and your roll of TP in a plastic bag and carry in or on your pack away from your food.
Trash
A hiker's biggest gripe according to many polls - trash on the trail and at camps - wrappers, toilet paper, plastic jugs - any can distract from the wilderness experience. Here's how you can be part of the solution.
But which one? We rent a wide choice of backpacks to suit most any trip. To help you select the best one for your needs, whether to rent or buy, we've put together some suggestions below. Also included are tips on fitting, loading, and carrying your pack without killing yourself.
Capacity and Sizes - Where Do I Start?
Pick your pack in part based on the type of trips you envision taking - overnight and weekenders; week-long adventures; or long expeditions. Most newcomers rightfully expect only to do a weekend at most, but it's a shame to have a get a larger pack later if you really like the activity and want to venture out further. But not too big, as we'll elaborate on more below. That's why renting is such a bargain - get only exactly what you need, only when you need it!
Backpacks are most often sized in terms of cubic inches or liters, referring to the volume capacity of the gear-holding compartments. Many models also come in different lengths (usually referenced as long, medium or short) to meet the different torso lengths of potential wearers, while some like most of the ones we rent are designed to be one-size-fits-most by incorporating an adjustable torso harness . Following are more details on each measurement.
Your cubic-inch/liter needs will be dictated by factors such as how many days' supplies you need to carry; whether it is warm or cold weather; and if you are a minimalist or comfort-seeking hiker. Packs up to 3,000 cubic inches (~50 liters) are excellent for day hiking or a 1-night trip in warm weather where your supply needs will be minimal, or when you utilize minimalist or higher-end, low volume gear. Packs of 3,000-4,000 cubic inch capacity (~65 liters) will nearly always hold enough gear for several nights out, again depending on weather, the size of your pieces of gear and your comfort needs. Once you get a bit over 4,000 cubic inches, your options really bump up, but at a cost of some weight. This range is still small enough to not be so heavy by itself, but flexible enough to carry several days worth of gear. You can typically carry up to 50 pounds including the pack in this size range, but your weight-goal should be a lot less.
Packs above 5,000 cubic inches (~85 liters) can accommodate most any trip - plenty of capacity for 7-10 days of gear in even cold weather (extra clothes take up room in cold weather). A pack in this size range offers a lot flexibility for backpackers when you have to carry a lot of heavy gear, but may be overkill for most trips.
Note that not all manufacturers calculate cubic inch (ci) volume the same way, and that an external frame pack will usually hold more gear than an internal of the same rated size. Also, don't 'supersize' your pack if you know you'll never need it at full capacity - no point in carrying around the extra weight of a larger, heavier pack itself, and there is a tendency to overpack if you have the room to stuff extra gear into it.
The other sizing factor to take into consideration is the torso length of the pack. What is a torso length? It's the length along your spine, starting at the top at the C7 vertebrae, which is the bone at the base of your neck that sticks out when you bend your neck forward, down to your lower back even with those hip bones that stick out and support your spare tire - the iliac crest is what that's called. It's tricky to measure yourself, so get a friend with a measuring tape to help you figure it out. And just because you think you're tall doesn't mean you have a "long" torso - you might be all legs - so always measure to be sure.
The importance of this torso measurement isn't the capacity of the pack, but the way the load can be shared between your hips and shoulders. A pack with a too-short torso setting for your build will be too heavy on your shoulders, and vice-versa. Our packs all have adjustable settings so you can fine-tune the fit.
Internals and Externals - Which is Best?
Most backpacks feature a metal frame that supports the 'container' bag and puts the weight where your body can best carry it with the least amount of strain - on your hips. These frames are referred to as either internal or external frame packs. We include this discussion for your education, but we only rent internal-frame packs
Internal-Frame Packs. Most packs sold today are internals - but that doesn't necessarily make that style the best choice for you. Internals appear narrow and tall on your back, with their framework inside the pack, behind the shoulder harness. An internal frame pack is ideally suited for trips where balance is critical or where narrow spaces will be encountered. Internal frame packs' backbone rests closely to your back, bringing the packs' center of gravity closer to you. This makes internals a good choice for people who carry loads while doing activities that require unrestricted arm movement, such as skiing, climbing or hiking rough trails. Rock hopping across a creek is often easier with an internal, for instance.
On the other hand, internals tend to cost more than external-framed packs; are hotter to wear because the pack is right on your back with little room for ventilation; and are typically harder to keep your gear organized - most internals just have one big compartment for all your gear to get stuffed into, whereas externals usually have more storage pockets.
External-Frame Packs. Externals are the traditional load workhorses, designed to carry large loads for long distances, which is why they are popular for military and hunting uses. Externals connect the bag to a rigid outside frame usually made of metal tubing, the design of which is intended to be supported mostly by the wearer's hips. More weight can thus be carried more comfortably while allowing the wearer to walk erect. External frames allow for increased ventilation to your back, keeping you cooler while backpacking. And, externals usually feature several main and side compartments, allowing greater organization of carried gear than comparably sized internals. Externals are usually priced lower than internals of comparable size, but the truth is, not many brands make them anymore.
There are some disadvantages to externals. Though not as bad as some would suggest, there can be a balancing problem with a heavy external if you are hiking in an area requiring nimble shifting around, such as on rough trails, creek crossings and skiing, for example. The lack of flexibility in the frame can cause problems in transporting - as in airline baggage or in your trunk. And some hikers think the internals simply look better, which is probably not a very good reason to go that route. Most externals will be heavier.
Other Pack Features to Consider
Padded comforts. Unless you're going after the ultra-light type of packs, look for and try out packs with padding and strap widths that are a good fit and match with your body shape - what is comfortable for one person may be uncomfortable to another. Find this in the hip belt, shoulder straps and padding between your back and the pack.
Adjustable fit. Good packs should be adjustable for torso length; feature load lifters and levelers; and accommodate different hip widths and angles. Each make and model will fit differently and in different degrees of comfort, so try on several with a weighted load before making a final decision. Note that some ultralight packs get that way by having little torso adjustment or padding.
Compression straps. Particularly in larger packs, look for straps on the sides and top that will allow you to compress the pack material down around smaller loads. This keeps gear from shifting and helps keep the load balanced while on your back.
Tough packbag material. Your pack will be tossed around, propped up against trees, get caught on rocks and protruding branches, get soaked from rain, plopped down in gravel and sand, and may be over-stuffed and under-cared for. Make sure it's made of materials that will last longer than a weekend. Any quality pack we offer or others in comparable prices ranges should last many years. Beware lower cost bargain packs - they may not be such a bargain after all. Ultralights will typically be less durable.
Lash points. If you are glutton for weight, look for packs that feature lash points, daisy chain loops and other attachable means to add gear or secondary packs to the outside.
Detachable compartments. One handy feature in some new larger-size pack models are gear compartments and pack accessories that can be removed to lighten up the base weight when not needed. For instance, some packs have side pockets that can carry substantial amounts of gear if needed, but that can be removed if carrying smaller loads. This increases the flexibility of one pack for different types and lengths of trips. Some of these detachable compartments can be used separately as a smaller daypack or summit-bagger pack, featuring straps or belts to carry from your hips or off your shoulders.
Water bottle/bladder holders. The most frequently accessed item you carry will be your water. Look for packs with external holsters to carry water bottles, and/or internal pockets to support a larger water bladder with a drinking tube.
Multiple access points. A convenient feature of some packs is to have multiple compartment entry points, so you can more easily access your gear. Otherwise, you may have to take everything out to get to something you need at the bottom of the compartment. But the more packets compartments and zippered areas, for example, the heavier it makes the pack.
For maximum comfort - and safety to some degree - don't just jam your gear into your pack without some planning. Your goal is to keep it weight-balanced left and right, and to keep the primary weight close to your back and near your center of gravity. Here's some specific suggestions to that end:
• Generally, lighter-weight items go at the bottom with heavier items near the middle and close to your body. However, if you are going to be scrambling or hiking off-trail on rough terrain or snow, you might want to pack some of the heavier items a little lower to bring down your center of gravity. But whenever possible, always try to keep the heaviest items near your back.
• The sleeping bag is usually pretty light for the space it takes up, so it should go in or on the bottom of the pack. Most packs are designed with a compartment at the bottom for your sleeping bag. If your pack has dividers that separate the sleeping bag from the rest of your gear, use them; it will take potentially damaging compression off a down sleeping bag.
• Pack clothing and other light gear around heavy items to keep them from shifting around too much.
• Items you will need to access during the day should be packed in the top of the main compartment, the top pocket, or side pockets.
• Weather and puncture resistant items, such as tent poles and tools can be carried on the outside of the pack. Use accessory straps or loops for these items.
• Water is probably the heaviest and densest single item you carry, so try to keep that near your back.
• Try to store your stove fuel upright and away from your food, in case of an accidental spill. Many hikers put their bottles in an outside compartment. These items can have hard edges; be sure they don't poke you in your back.
• A lot of hikers roll up their sleeping pad and strap it to the outside of their pack. This works fine, but beware of protruding rocks and branches along your trail that could rip it.
If you are not careful, more damage can be done to your body when you first put a loaded pack onto your back than by hiking with it all day. You're usually not warmed up, the pack is at its heaviest, and the sudden wrenching and weight can cause havoc, particularly with your back and shoulder muscles. Here's how to avoid that problem.
When removing a pack, reverse the steps. Unbuckle the sternum strap, loosen the shoulder straps and loosen and then unbuckle the hip belt. Leaning forward, roll the pack off your back onto the thigh of one leg, then lower to the ground by its haul loop. Lean up against a tree or rock, avoiding sharp objects or tree sap.
How to Adjust a Pack for Fit
You should do an initial fit adjustment of your pack at home before trying to fool with it on the trail. Familiarize yourself with what can be many straps, belts and buckles of various sizes and functions on the pack. Some are for fitting adjustments, some are compression straps to reduce the size of the bag to fit the load inside, and others are for attaching gear or other bags on the outside. Our interest here is in the fit adjustment straps.
1) Your first adjustment should be a tweak to the torso length settings. Most packs are designed to fit torsos within a range of at least 2-3 inches, and are adjustable within that range. See above on how to measure your torso. How to then fine tune that torso adjustment varies from model to model. Most adjust where the straps are attached to the body of the pack. User guides often have the specifics. The torso straps adjustment is best done with the pack off and empty.
2) Once the torso adjustment is done, add at least 20 or 30 pounds of weight inside the pack that is comparable in volume to what you will be carrying. That is, don't just throw in a 25-pound barbell plate into it as 'pretend' weight. Distribute some of your actual gear or test dummy contents throughout the pack. Also note that if you carry substantially more weight in a pack than it is designed for, the pack frame or suspension may sag and no amount of adjustment can make it comfortable.
3) Loosen all of the adjustable straps and hip belt and hoist the pack onto your back as described above. To best make the final adjustments, you really need a friend or a mirror nearby to help spot anything out of kilter.
4) Position the hipbelt so that the middle of the hip belt comes to the hip bones of your iliac crest (those pointy bones just below your spare tire), and buckle the hip belt, partially snug. The belt should be long enough to comfortably come around your hips, but not so long that its two ends touch at your belly button. If you have either case, stop and get another hip belt; most models have interchangeable belt sizes. Loosen or tighten hip belts like a car seat belt.
5) Cinch the shoulder straps down tightly, then loosen back just slightly. Look sideways in a mirror or have your friend check the position of your shoulder straps. Shoulder straps should anchor to the backpack about 1 inch below the crest of your shoulders. The buckle on the strap should be far enough below your armpit that it won't chafe. The straps should be far enough apart that they don't squeeze your neck, but close enough together that they don't slip off of your shoulders during hiking.
6) Check your load-lifter straps. These should attach to your shoulder straps at a point just above your collarbone and just below the top of your shoulders. From there, they should rise up to join with the frame at an angle of between 40 and 50 degrees. If the angle is higher than that, your frame is too long. Any lower and your shoulders will carry too much of the load.
7) Check for a good torso fit. If the hip belt is on tight, the shoulder straps should be just resting on the top of your shoulders. You can then redistribute the weight of the pack between your shoulders and your hips simply by loosening and tightening your shoulder straps slightly.
8) Adjust the sternum strap so it is about 2" below your collarbone. You should be able to breathe comfortably when the strap is fastened. Sternum straps are meant to keep your shoulder straps from sliding off your shoulders under a load. They are not meant to support weight and should never be pulled tightly enough across the chest so as to restrict breathing.
9) Walk around for a few minutes with the loaded pack. Lean forward and sideways; bounce around a bit; walk some stairs. Note the weight shift within the pack and on your back. If you fall over, adjustments are needed! The pack may well feel heavy; that's part of it. But, you should have reasonably unrestricted movement. There should not be pinching anywhere. You should be able to stand upright without hitting the pack with your head.
10) The metal stays that serve as the frame of internal-frame packs usually can be bent to conform to the contours of your torso. Sometimes just the weight of the pack after a bit of hiking will bend the stays to fit, but if not, you can adjust the relatively soft metal to better match the curvature of your spine. We're talking small adjustments here; not twisting or folding like a piece of aluminum foil, so be careful.
11) You might be surprised at the number of subsequent adjustments you have to make after you are on the trail. There are several reasons for this. First, no matter what you do, the first mile with a fairly heavy pack is the worst, until your body adjusts to the equivalent of you having gained a lot of weight overnight. Since how the pack feels to you after that first mile will be quite different than when you start, further adjustments may be in order. Somewhere along the way the load may shift within the pack bag, altering the weight-balance, requiring an adjustment. The pack weight may fluctuate considerably as you drink and then reload food and water, requiring adjustments. Sometimes a pressure point, cramp or pinch will develop anywhere from your shoulders down to your hamstring; a small adjustment in the shoulder straps can often make all the difference in the world.
Many women backpackers have used the same models as men for years without any problems. However, there are some new pack models that accommodate the Venus/Mars physical differences in our bodies that women may find more comfortable. These models take into consideration the typically shorter torso lengths of women in the pack frame length; the presence of curves in the shoulder strap configuration; and the support belts are more accommodating for the female bone structure in the hips.
We carry packs and sleeping bags specifically designed for women. If this gear is otherwise appropriate for your trip, and everything else being equal, try one of these Women's Backpacks for maximum comfort.
Despite the seemingly unending energy that kids and teenagers have, most aren't cut out for long backpacking trips with heavy loads. So don't burn them out with too much too soon. I've seen 10-year-olds on top of mountains I struggled to get to myself, but it's not uncommon for football-playing studs of high school age to give out early into hikes. The solution? Start out with short introductory trips with light loads and comfortable packs specifically designed for the typical kid's straight-arrow build and still-malleable bones.
Most backpacks for the younger set are of lower volume to keep weight light and loaded on the stronger hip bones. Most are highly adjustable to keep up with growth spurts. Try to keep backpack weight under 25% of body weight.
]]>Getting Prepared
A zillion-dollar sleeping bag won't help if you start out with a crappy campsite and bad preparation. A few pointers:
1) Look for as level a spot as possible to pitch your tent - even a slight slope will be uncomfortable once you lay down. If your choice is rough ground or sloping ground, take the rough - your mattress will absorb most of the rough spots, but there's not much you can do for the slope;
2) If you do end up having to sleep on a slope, sleep parallel with it, with your head at the higher end. Avoid having your head downhill whenever possible;
3) Clean yourself up as best you can before you crawl in your bag: dirtiness = stickiness = sleeplessness.
4) Sleep close enough to water to hear it running for a soothing melody, but not so close where flooding is a danger or you're in the only path animals use to come to drink;
5) Open up any vents in the tent to allow air to circulate and minimize clamminess, even in cold weather (see our rental tents);
6) and, hey, boys - you might sleep thru the night at home just fine without a pee run, but the extra water during the day, the early bedtime, and the harder surface underneath you is hell on bladders when you're camping. You can either lie there awake from the pain, or lie awake after getting up into the cold or wet night outside your tent to take care of business. Or, be lazy and smart and take a pee bottle to use at night - just don't forget which is which . . . . Sorry gals, don't know what to tell ya about any equivalent solution.
There's more about this in the next section . . . .
Sleeping Bag Temperature Ratings
Temperature ratings in sleeping bags are only intended as general guidelines, not absolutes. A sleeping bag's temperature or "comfort" rating identifies the most extreme temperature the bag is designed to accommodate. For example, when you hear a bag described as a "+20" or "20-degree" bag, it’s suggesting that most users should remain comfortable as long as the air temperature stays above 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The sleeping bag industry is working to develop standards for temperature ratings (EN Ratings), but not all brands participate. Some of the problems with coming up with manufacturing standards come from the wide variety of materials used (down, many different types of synthetic material, etc.) and construction techniques. These variables combined with variations in bag lengths and girths make for almost endless combinations. So, one company's 20-degree bag might have the insulation effect as another company's 30-degree bag, so take the rating with the proverbial grain of salt. However, if you see two bags, both of which are similarly "EN-Rated", then in theory anyway they should be comparably warm to the temperature ratings.
But the manufacturers' variables pale in comparison to the users'. A sleeping bag is an insulator- it will keep hot things hot and cold things cold. Ultimately, the user determines whether they sleep warm or cold within in a bag. Sleeping bags keep you warm by trapping and holding a layer of "dead" (non-circulating) air next to your body. This air, which is warmed by your body heat, forms a barrier between you and colder air or cold surfaces.
Here are a few of the user variables and how they can affect the warmth retention capability of the sleeping bag:
Our bottom line? If you camp in a wide range of temperatures, but only want one bag, we believe a majority of trips for most of the year can be handled with a bag in the 25- to 30-degree range. But December - February in higher elevations probably warrants a 0-degree bag. In summer, just unzip the 30-degree bag as needed to stay cool. But that's the great thing about renting - watch the weather forecast or call a nearby ranger station for their suggestions, and rent accordingly - get exactly what you need! We have bags rated from -20' to +50'. See all of our sleeping bags for rent.
Down vs Synthetics
Once you've decided on a temperature rating, another decision awaits you - down or synthetic insulation material. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.
Down is the wispy, fluffy undercoating found just beneath the outer feathers of geese and ducks. This natural fiber is an extraordinary insulator. Goose down is preferred to down from ducks; sorry, ducks. Synthetic materials, in comparison, are basically just hollow plastic threads, usually in one long strand.
Down is a more expensive, but has a longer lifespan - a well-maintained sleeping bag can easily last 20 years. It offers excellent insulation for surprisingly little weight, and can be compacted into very small sizes. Its biggest drawback is if it ever gets wet, it's pretty useless as an insulator until it dries - which can take awhile, as in days if it's cold. So cost, maintenance and cleaning are its major issues.
Synthetic insulation materials are improving every year for warmth and compressibility. Comparable temperature-rated bags filled with synthetic materials are nearly always significantly cheaper than down, are easier to clean and are safer to use in wet conditions. They won't last as long as a down bag, but who keeps anything for 20 years anyway? Down or synthetics - either will rip wide open if caught on a nice little thorn bush, so keep it inside your bag when backpacking.
Because of its value, ease in keeping clean, and better performance if wet, we've selected synthetic as the insulation material for most of the bags we offer for rent.
When making your final sleeping bag selection from us as a rental or other source, consider all factors, including temperature rating, insulation type, bag style, length and weight.
1) Rating. The temperature rating we've already discussed above. We offer a full range for comfort between below-zero freeze-outs to warm summer nights. We mostly only offer bags with synthetic insulation, but if you buy one, consider down bags for the absolute in lightest weight and maximum compressibility- as long as you're normally in dry conditions. Otherwise, the new synthetics are a better value and have very few drawbacks.
2) Style. Bags come in two basic shapes, with a number of hybrid versions. "Mummies" are slim, close-fitting bags designed to save weight and retain heat as efficiently as possible. They start narrow at the feet, get wider toward the shoulder, then taper to an insulated, fitted hood. Nearly all lightweight backpacking bags are mummy-shaped. "Rectangular" bags are usually for car-camping use where heat-retention and weight are less of an issue. Mummies are better for cold weather, but can feel confining to some campers. Rectangular bags have room to toss and turn a bit, but let a lot of body heat escape since most don't have hoods. Most of the ones we have are mummy bags.
Another hybrid option is to take two sleeping bags and mate them together to create a "cocoon" for two. You can pull this off with two bags that have similar sized zippers, with one a "right-hand" zipper and the other a "left-hand" zipper. (A bag with a right-hand zipper means the bag opens and closes to your right when you are lying in the bag on your back. Note that in cold weather this setup will be less efficient at retaining heat, no matter how cozy you get. We also have a sleeping bag for two for rent.
3) Length. For most sleeping bag makers, 6' is the arbitrary cutoff between a "regular" and "long" style bag. For women's bags, the cutoff is often around 5'5". Your bag should be snug, but not too tight or short; go with the longer version if you are on the fringes of the regular size. You can always use some of your clothes to take up dead space in the bag if it's too long, or tie off some of the excess space around your feet. Or see all of our various bag sizes and styles for rent.
4) Weight. Finally, consider weight in your decision. As a general rule (exceptions apply of course), remember that synthetic bags will be heavier than their similarly temperature-rated down bags; the colder the temperature rating, the heavier the bag will be; rectangular bags weigh more than mummies; and long versions of bags will weigh more than regular-length versions. But the total difference between a light one and heavy one is maybe 2 pounds – not much unless you're on a long trip. Bag weights are usually included in the product description text.
Camping Mattress Selection
Lots of people have sleeping bags; a lot fewer have a sleeping mattress - the latter folks are really missing out on at least half of the comfort formula. Sleeping pads keep you comfortable when you're sleeping on hard, uneven ground and provide an important layer of insulation between you and the ground. Sleeping pads insulate the same way that sleeping bags and clothing layers do, by trapping a layer of non-circulating air between your body and the ground. Your body warms this air and it becomes a important barrier against heat loss to the ground.
Like bags, your selection of a mattress requires you to factor size, weight, comfort and outside temperature. We offer for rent a broad selection of ThermaRest and other brand camping mattresses. Nearly all are self-inflating pads - open-cell foam pads wrapped in air-tight, waterproof nylon shells. They roll up small and tight for carrying, and then inflate by themselves as the name suggests (although you will end up blowing more air into it for additional firmness). We have pads of different width, thickness and lengths to choose from. See the category and product descriptions for more details on which one is best for you.
Hike with your sleeping pads in tough sacks to protect them from sharp objects in your pack or protruding from the sides of the trail, or, strap the sleeping pad vertically along your pack in its nylon bag to limit the pad getting caught on sharp objects.
When we send you sleeping gear for rent, we'll send along additional tips and instructions to help out. For more suggestions on trip preparation, what gear and essentials to take, and other helpful reference information, check out our advice pages.
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Happy Trails!
Where Do I Start?
There are many criteria to consider in your selection process, but certainly four of the more important ones include size, seasons, weight, and budget.
SIZE. As in how many will your tent need to protect – just you; a couple, or a family? When considering what size tent, you also have to factor in the issues of weight, privacy and practicality. For backpacking trips, one- or-two-man tents are most common. For car or base camping, larger (and heavier) tents will work if you need the space, but are usually too heavy for backpacking. Will your family always be going with you – if so get a larger one. If you want privacy or less rustling around all night, try two smaller ones instead – one for the parents; one for the kids. One good compromise is a lightweight 2-person tent – it’s not too heavy to carry for one, but big enough to share with another when needed.
SEASONS. Tents are designed for the variety of weather conditions encountered during different seasons of the year, as well as the activities in which you may participate during these seasons. Be sure that the tent you choose meets or exceeds the conditions that you expect to encounter. The main categories are 3-season tents, good for Spring thru the mild stages of winter; and 4-season tents, which are often used in expeditions under severe weather conditions. See more on these two styles below. Some campers just want minimal protection and focus on lightweight tarps and covers. That can be an inexpensive, lightweight direction to go, but not always practical under bad weather conditions.
WEIGHT. Weight is an issue for tents used for backpacking, but pretty much a non-issue for car-camping. The lighter the tent, the more expensive it often is since the materials are higher-tech and thus more costly to produce. Typical high quality backpacking solo tents are in the 2-4 pound range (see example here); two-person versions are usually just a few ounces heavier. A large family tent like the ones we rent can weigh in at close to 18 pounds or more (see example here). Tents designed to handle severe weather will be substantially heavier than their 3-season counterparts.
BUDGET. Beware the cheapie tent at the discount store. It might keep a sprinkle off of you, but you’ll get wet in a heavy downpour; ventilation can be iffy, and heavy winds can bring it crashing down. The lighter the tent, usually the more expensive it is, and 4-season tents are more expensive than 3-season versions. Everything else being equal, larger tents are more expensive than smaller tents, but note that most high-quality, but small backpacking tents are more expensive than some discount larger family tents.
We offer a wide range of tents to meet most budgets and most intended camping styles. Everything we offer is high-quality, though; we don’t try to compete with the discount store offerings. We want you to stay dry and not blow away; buy a tent from Wally World at your own risk!! See our full selection of rental tents.
There are many differences between 3-season and 4-season tents, including: 4-season tents are stronger; more wind and snow resistant; less ventilated; have more poles; may have a different geometric design; and can be twice as heavy as a comparably sized 3-season tent. Select a 4-season tent if you will likely face harsh weather conditions, such as high winds and/or heavy snow. Unless you do a lot of winter camping, a 3-season tent should suffice – better model 3-season tents will protect you from a reasonable amount of snowfall and high wind if properly staked out. And also note that a 4-season tent won't necessarily be any warmer than a 3-season version, as none of these style tents are insulated. But if you often hike into higher elevations – even in the fall and spring – you may face weather extremes frequently enough to warrant renting a 4-season tent.
Most of the tents we carry are 3-season, which reflects the needs of most campers.
Other Tent Features to Consider
After you have settled on the appropriate size, style, weight and have determined your budget range, here’s a few other features to look for or consider to narrow down your choices:
Free Standing or Not. A “free-standing” tent is designed with a pole structure that doesn’t require stakes to keep its shape intact. Such a tent is ideal if you frequently camp in rocky areas or loose sand where use of stakes is difficult. But just because it is free-standing doesn’t mean you shouldn’t secure it with stakes if its windy – otherwise it could go flying off like a kite. And, tents that are normally staked out can still be secured in rocky, hard ground areas with rocks laid on top of the straps normally used for the stakes. This isn’t perfect, but works fine in mild winds; use guy lines when stakes can’t be used for even more wind and rain security. Most of our rental tents are free-standing.
Pockets. Look for internal storage and organizing pockets and loops along the tent walls or overhead to store loose items; suspend lights; or hang gear.
High Floor Seams. Beware of low-level seams where the tent floor meets the walls; could be an open avenue for water to seep thru.
Taped Seams. Be sure the specs indicate all the seams are taped for waterproofness.
Rainfly. If a double-walled tent, make sure the outer wall, or rainfly, is easily attached to the poles or first wall with clips – avoiding a need to carry a lot of extra stakes. Make sure the rainfly adequately covers the tent body to offer full rain protection.
Doors. A 2- or 3-person tent with just one door can make it difficult to get in and out of without stepping on your fellow campers; doors on each side are ideal.
Ventilation. Double-wall tents are less conducive to condensation than single-walled tents, so keep that in mind when choosing, particularly if you camp in humid areas. Look for ventilation enhancements such as flaps, configurable rainfly doors, etc to maximize air flow.
Poles. Look for color-coding in poles and straps or other helpful features that ease tent setup.
Vestibule. This is the tent “porch” of sorts – usually provided by a section of the rainfly near the door that extends out further than the tent body, offering covered shelter beyond the sleeping area. Can be used to protect gear, shoes or a canine companion you don’t want inside the tent with you.
Interior Height. Check this spec – ultralight tents sometimes get light by shaving off the amount of material needed with a lower profile. That’s great unless you have bouts with claustrophobia, or like to change clothes inside your tent. Some low-slung versions aren’t very conducive to movement inside. Also note that the listed interior height is usually at just one peak point; walls may descend sharply from that.
Everyone probably knows by now that a “2 by 4” board isn’t really sized 2” x 4” anymore. So be careful with claims about tents that say “2-man”, “6-person”, etc. They may be technically correct, but it can depend on the camper’s size and willingness to “be cozy”. For example, some two-man tents won’t have enough side room to lay two mattresses together without touching the side walls – I guess they assumed one guy would just lie on the ground. Some family-sized tents claiming room for 5 or more only fit that many if you stack everyone in a certain way, or if some campers are pint-sized.
Check out interior height specs to make sure you won’t get claustrophobic, and lengths to make sure your head and feet won’t be pressing up against the walls. Some tents get tight for those over 6’ tall. For multi-person tents, consider how campers will get in and out without stepping on someone else in a middle-of-the-night pee run – two doors help.
Most tent spec sheets include a diagram of the floor space with dimensions. If you can’t see the tent in person, mark out the dimensions on a floor and make sure it’s big enough for your needs. If you are at a store checking one out, have the sales clerk throw air mattress(s) inside of it and see how it fits. Climb in yourself and stretch out.
Selecting a Camp Site and Usage Tips
Rule #1. Always setup a new tent at home, in the yard or even in your living room if necessary, before taking it out on a trip. Figure out how it sets up and make sure all the parts are there before you leave home.
The best tent ever made won’t help if you start out with a crappy campsite and bad preparation. A few pointers:
· Choose a spot previously used by other campers. Minimize your impact on nature; don’t be a trailblazer with additional camp sites. When you leave, make it look like you were never there.
· Find the most level spot to pitch your tent; choose a rough flat surface over a smooth slope if you have to choose, since your mattress will absorb most of the rough spots.
· If you end up on a slope, sleep parallel with the slope with your head on the higher side.
· Always look over the area where your tent will sit and remove any sharp objects that may damage the floor. This is where most tent damage occurs.
· You should find a camp site near water for convenience and a soothing melody at night, but don’t setup so close where flooding is a danger or you’re in the only path animals use to come to drink. Beware that “water = mosquitos + flies” most of the time.
· Look up above your intended site for overhead dangers. Tents are strong, but they won’t hold back a widowmaker – a dead tree or branch that started to fall but is precariously held in place by another tree.
· Choose sites that will drain well, even in a downpour. Avoid slight depressions and dry beds of creeks in canyon country.
· It is not safe to use a candle or candle lantern inside the tent. It is also not safe to cook inside or even under the vestibule. Flames = heat on thin fabric = disaster in the making.
· Use a ground cloth or “foot print” to go under your tent, especially if car camping. This protects your valuable tent floor from tears and punctures, and offers a bit more insulation. Just make sure that whatever you use is smaller in size than the perimeter of your tent; otherwise water might pool underneath you.
· Open up any vents in the tent to allow air to circulate and minimize clamminess, even in cold weather.
· If you are in bear country, do not keep any food, cookware, deodorant, toothpaste or anything else aromatic in the tent with you. Don’t even sleep in the clothes you cooked in or wore all day with snacks in the pockets. Otherwise, you may have an unwelcome visitor at night checking you out. Even if bears aren’t around, you’d have a potential problem with mice, squirrels and other critters coming in to check things out. Either hang your food out of harm’s way, or use a bear canister. Learn more about safety in bear country.
Like a lot of things, tents will last a long time if you take care of them, but can rapidly turn into trash if you don’t. Here’s how to avoid the trash route.
· Rule #1. Proper cleaning and storage of a tent will prolong its life. When backpacking, try to reasonably clean and dry your tent everyday on your trip before packing it up for that day’s hike. Definitely clean your tent of all mud, loose dirt and debris as soon as you return from your camping trip. Shake out any loose dirt, and wipe the floor and fly clean with a sponge and water. Make sure your tent is completely dry before you pack it away. A tent that is packed away while damp will mildew. Storing your tent loosely in a large stuff sack or box may help prevent the formation of mildew, especially in humid climates. For a more thorough cleaning, hand wash your tent in a mild cleaner like liquid hand soap and water solution. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry out of direct sunlight. Never machine wash or tumble dry your tent.
· Mildew will “kill” a tent. A musty odor, and/or small cross-shaped spots on the tent fabric indicate mildew formation. Mildew uses the dirt and soil as nutrients to grow and reproduce. This fungus actually penetrates the urethane coating of the tent fabric and grows between the tent fabric and coating, eventually lifting the coating from the fabric. Waterproofness is thus lost and the fabric is eventually destroyed.
· Should mildew begin to form, immediate action can be taken to retard further growth. Wash the tent as instructed above. Next, sponge-wipe the tent with a solution made up of 1/2 cup Lysol to a gallon of hot water, or rinse with a solution of 1 cup of lemon juice and 1 cup of salt to a gallon of hot water. Sponge over the affected areas and allow to air dry, out of direct sunlight, without rinsing. This will kill the mildew on the tent, and prevent it from getting worse, but it may not remove the mildew marks. In some severe cases, the mildew and/or the treatment will damage the coating that waterproofs your tent. In those cases you might be able to salvage the tent by spraying the affected area with a waterproofing solution.
· Avoid storing your tent in a plastic bag or any other airtight, confined space. Find a cool, dry spot to store your tent such as a closet inside your house where it won't be exposed to humidity.
· Most of the problems experienced with tent zippers are due to wear in the zipper sliders, rather than a failure of the coil itself. (The slider is the metal part that you move to zip and unzip the zipper.) Particles of dirt and grit on the coil, accumulated during use, abrade the mechanism inside the slider head. When the slider becomes sufficiently worn, it will stop engaging the teeth of the coil correctly and cause the zipper to open up behind the slider. Obviously, keeping your tent as clean as possible will slow this process. The more exposure to sand and grit that the zippers see, the more quickly the sliders will wear. Be sure to clean the zipper coils after every trip. Water and a gentle brushing works. Zipper cleaners and lubes are available at most outdoor stores, or you can use paraffin wax or lip balm if you're in a pinch. Petroleum based lubricants are not recommended.
· Most seams in good quality tents have been taped at the factory for increased waterproofing. While seam tape helps, additional seam sealing will improve the performance of your tent in rainy conditions. For additional weatherproofness, seal all places where attachments are sewn to the fly, including webbing, Velcro, snaps, guy-outs, and zipper tracks. The best way to seal your tent is to use a urethane-based seam sealer such as Seam Grip, and run a thin bead around the base of the attachment, where it is sewn to the fly. Do this to attachments both on the inside and outside of the fly. If needed, seal the perimeter seam of your tent floor by running a bead of seam-sealer around the inside perimeter. Make sure the seam-sealer is completely dry – up to 12 hours - before re-packing your tent.
· Keep all flame and heat sources away from tent fabric. Many tents are made with flame-resistant fabric, but are not fire-proof.
· Another silent tent killer is UV damage from the sun. UV damage will cause nylon and polyester to become brittle and tear easily. Setup your tent on trips in the shade when possible, and don’t let your tent set up all week in your backyard as it's drying out from your last trip. Consider using the rain fly even on clear days, since it acts as a sunscreen to the tent and is less expensive to replace if damaged.
· Don’t wear shoes inside your tent. Create a “mat” to place outside your tent door to minimize tracking in dirt and twigs. A plastic garbage bag works well for that.
· To get tree sap or pitch off your tent, freeze the tent and pick off the pitch with some duct tape rolled back on itself, or use mineral oil to clean it off. GoofOff adhesive cleaner works as well.
· Avoid letting your tent poles come together by hard snapping of the shock cord--it could bend the tips. Avoid scratching the pole coatings, since that promotes corrosion. Lightly lubricate the pole joints to minimize wear, and break poles down from the middle to reduce strain on the cords. If possible, store the poles in assembled position to minimize stress on the cords.
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There are two primary types of bears in the United States - black bears and grizzlies. The latter are found in parts of Alaska, Wyoming, Idaho and Montana. Although they are on the California flag, they are no longer found in that state. Black bears are much more common, and are found in most parts of the US with high elevations. Black bears come in different shapes, sizes and colors. While they were named for their color, they can also be brown, cinnamon, and black with white patches on their chest, but most black bears are in fact black or a darker shade of brown. The black bear is approximately 5 to 6 feet from head to tail, and two to three feet high at the withers. The black bear varies in weight - males from 125 - 550 pounds; females from 90 - 300 pounds. Grizzlies are substantially larger and more dangerous. Other than the size, you can tell the difference between a brown-fur black bear and a grizzly by the snout - the grizzly's is somewhat rectangular and almost pug-nosed; the black bear's is rounder and longer. Bears are very fast - racehorse fast in fact. No point in trying to outrun one; try something else because you'll lose that race. Black bears can easily climb trees; grizzlies usually don't, but can reach up and grab things - including you - several yards off the ground.
Except during breeding season and while raising their young, bears are generally shy, retiring, solitary animals. They try to avoid humans and are considered non-aggressive except when injured, protecting their young, or protecting themselves. The bear is inclined to escape from human presence. Bears are most active in the cool of the evening or early morning. During the heat of the day, they will seek shade in dense underbrush. Grizzlies are less shy than black bears, however.
Bears have a very powerful sense of smell - as in pick out that gum wrapper in your pocket strong - which coupled with strong curiosity can make them an unintentional danger when you're in the woods. So, one key to your safety is to minimize the number of encounters. Here are some suggestions:
Avoiding bears...
Bears feel threatened if surprised. Here are a few hints to help you avoid an encounter:
Most bear encounters occur in established camp areas when the bears smell food and come looking for the source, especially if they've had success there in the past. If the food is well out of the way or inaccessible, there are rarely problems for the campers - the bear loses interest and moves on. But once a bear finds easy food at a camp, their behavior can quickly become dangerous as they start to expect food from any human camp. The adage is - a fed bear is usually a dead bear. Rangers may eventually have to kill a bear that loses its fear of humans or becomes aggressive in camps because of past success at finding food that way.
Don't feed the bears...
The National Park Service strongly advises (and in many cases mandates) that all backpackers carry and use approved bear-resistant food storage canisters; supplied bear boxes at camps; or to hang food on cables at designated camp sites. If you use a canister, leave it away from your sleeping area. If a bear finds it, do not risk provoking the bear by attempting to take the container away from the bear. These containers easily withstand a bear's pawing, chewing and kicking, so let him have at it. The bear will eventually lose interest in it and leave it alone. If you use a food-hanging method, it requires some engineering and unless properly done, most bears can "outsmart" your effort, snagging your food and leaving you hungry until you get out of the woods. But if you must, here's a couple of recommended ways to hang food and personal items out of the reach of bears.
1) First, start with a stuff sack instead of a plastic bag - one swipe from a paw or a resourceful squirrel or raccoon will dump the contents out of a flimsy plastic bag.
2) Find a branch ideally strong enough to hold your food, but not so strong that a bear could climb out on it. It should also be positioned such that food hanging from the branch will be a good distance away from the ground (at least 9 feet) and at least three feet from the trunk of the tree.
3) Tie a rock to one end of a nylon line and toss it over the branch. Tip - put a rock in a sock or bag first, then tie the sack or bag to the rope - it's easier that way. Now you have the line draped over the branch with both ends on the ground.
4) Divide your food into equal-weight piles. Put each pile into sack(s). Tie one pile's bag(s) onto one end of the rope and hoist it as high as possible. While holding the other end of the line down - maybe under your boot, or with the help of a partner - tie the second pile of bags to that end of the line as high as possible. Leave the excess line outside/on top of the second bag so no rope is hanging down within bear range.
5) Now raise the lower bag up. If you get this just right the upper bag will drop down to the same height as the lower and both will be positioned correctly - balancing each other over the branch and out of harm's way. You might have to push the lower bag up with a stick or your hiking poles to get them even. Get the bags down in the morning by using a branch or your hiking poles to snag the excess rope on the last bag tied, then pull it down, remove it, and let the other bag down.
6) Hanging bags this way is simple in concept but pretty tricky and time-consuming in execution. Finding the right branch can be a problem, and then it takes awhile to get everything hung just right - and you're often trying all this in the dark and cold. Tree branches hardly work like greased pulleys - ropes get tangled and don't move smoothly on rough bark. And several bags of food and personal items can get heavy. That's why we like the bear canisters - sure it's a couple of extra pounds to carry, but it's a whole lot simpler and quicker to deal with.
7) Here's another bag-hanging alternative that isn't quite as preventative as the preceding method, but is quicker and works fine except against the bears with Engineering Degrees. This way requires a longer rope, but less finagling with the food bags. You also need two branches maybe 10 feet apart and at least 15 feet high that you can drape the rope over to then suspend the bags between these two branches.
Toss one end of your rope over one branch, pulling all of the rope over to the other side except for enough to tie off the now short end of the rope to another tree as high as possible to anchor it. Now tie the bags of food to that point along the remaining rope that would be midpoint between the two branches you've selected. Then toss the rope over the second branch and pull tight, which should leave the bags suspended high and between the two branches. Lastly, tie off the remaining end of the rope to a tree, again as high as possible. Adjust the anchoring points so that the food is between the two branches. The anti-bear concept here is that the bags will be out of the bear's reach, but the ropes that hold the bags will not be so close to the food bags as to be associated as such by the bear, and with somewhat less trouble than the first method. While you're at it, tie pots to your ropes, so that if a bear starts to yank the ropes in any manner, the loud noise should scare it off.
Here is an additional article on bear-proofing your camp site, along with some diagrams, from another author.
Don't be bear dinner...
What do you do if you're noisy, odor-free, observant, and careful, but still run into a bear on the trail or in camp?
Despite your best efforts, you may still encounter a bear wandering during its daily travels. Upon spotting a human, the naturally curious bear will either run away, or stop to check you out.
Today’s natural water sources are nearly always home to such invisible characters like Giardia lamblia, Cryptosporidium, and other nasty “bugs”. Generally, these protozoa and bacteria and viruses won’t kill you, but just make you wish you were dead before they run their course – run being the operative word here. Where’d these nasties come from? The worst come from mostly other people, or rather their feces to be more exact, but animal feces cause problems too – so sipping from the creek 100 years ago was still a risky proposition.
So what to do? If you can’t carry all the water you need from home or known potable source – like off the shelf at Kroger’s – here are some options.
Boiling works – just bringing a pot of water to rolling boil will wipe out everything you’d need to worry about as far as bacteria and viruses (boil longer at higher elevations), but does little for mud or chemicals in the water. Now you have hot muddy water, but drinkable.
Water filters – filters designed for backwoods use will take out most bacteria and chemicals, but not viruses – they’re too small for most filters to catch. Although viruses are generally the cause of traveler’s diarrhea – Montezuma’s Revenge, etc – in other countries, they are not considered that much of a threat in most North American wilderness areas. That threat seems to be increasing though, particularly in high-use camping areas.
Add treatment solutions – chlorine, if you use enough of it for long enough, will kill bacteria and viruses, but not do anything for chemicals and sediment and maybe not all protozoa. Iodine works like that as well, but may offer limited protection against Cryptosporidium. And either makes the water taste somewhere between the flavor of a public swimming pool and some first aid ointment.
Most of the time, in most cases, in most hiking areas – catch that loophole? – a good water filter is all you need. Drop the inlet hose into the water source, pump away on the handle, and let the water from the outlet hose go into your water bladder or other container. It’s pretty safe to drink then.
If you want to go from “pretty safe” to “real safe”, invest in a few drops or tablets of chlorine-based treatment solution to wipe out anything that’s left. Add a few drops or a tablet shake, and let it sit for about 20 minutes or more to work its magic. Household bleach has the same basic ingredients, but the concentration levels are way out of whack compared to the stuff specifically designed for hiking-related water treatment.
We suggest the filter and chlorine route. We carry very popular water filters from Katadyn and MSR that have a long proven history of effectiveness. For added safety, you can add chlorine treatments from various brands.
Tips On Treatment
Water filters are like a vacuum cleaner – they get clogged if you don’t clean them. Most of the filters we carry have a replaceable element that we keep track of – unless you’re pumping many, many gallons of water you should not have to worry about clogging a filter from us under normal water conditions. But – muddy water will reduce the cartridge life span. To extend cartridge life, always use the best water source available. In heavy sediment conditions, wrap a coffee filter or bandana around the intake prefilter. Just wrap around the intake bulb with a rubber band. Where possible, place untreated water in a container and wait for sediment to settle out and the water appears clear; then filter from water above the sediment. If the handle becomes very hard to pump, the filter cartridge may have become clogged. As a temporary solution in the field, remove the cartridge and swish it around in water. Do not allow contaminated water to enter the cartridge output barb. This will usually provide enough additional cartridge life to complete your trip.
Another tip we offer may seem counterintuitive – pump your water from still, rather than running sources. Sure, the running creek water looks cool, clear and inviting, but the churning water leaves various nasties suspended within it. Pooled water, on the other hand, gives the chemicals and heavier particles a chance to settle to the bottom – that further reduces the likelihood of something bad getting through to your stomach.
As you pump water, or storing the filter in its bag between loading sessions, be careful not to let the intake filter or water dripping from it contaminate the outlet hose or cap that goes into your water bottle or bladder. If it does, be sure to rinse it off with filtered water before using again. Take a small baggie to wrap around the outlet cap with a rubber band when not in use.
If you use a chlorine-based solution to further purify the water, you can get rid of the chlorine taste – with some carbon-based filters – by running thru the filter again. Also consider adding a citrus mix or Gatorade to the water to mask the chemical taste.
Finally, watch for contamination potential within your water bladder or container between uses or refills. Various bad things can start to grow with just a few drops of stale water left alone for a few days. Let the container air dry completely between uses. Sanitize by soaking in a mixture of water and baking soda or vinegar for several minutes.
How Much Have You Had To Drink?
So if you now have safe water to drink from filtering or other treatment, how much do you need? At home, the average person uses maybe 80 gallons a day, so obviously something has to give when you’re out in the woods. OK, so you’re not flushing or showering, or watering your lawn, or washing your car, but that still leaves a lot of water to account for.
Heat and elevation gain are the biggest consumption variables. On a sharp uphill climb on a hot summer day, you can suck down an easy quart an hour. That’s why you don’t want to be boiling water as a treatment method; it would take forever to get very far. That’s also why you want to make sure you have some reliable water sources along the way when you hike – choose trails and routes that will take you near water at least every now and then so you can reload your water container(s). And try to camp reasonably close to a water source as well. Figure going through at least a gallon a day per person in moderate weather and exertion conditions; up to 2 gallons a day when it’s hot or covering long distances and elevation.
You can carry water on a hike in 16- to 32-ounce bottles of various shapes and sizes on short day hikes, or on longer trips move up to water bladders that will hold up to a gallon of water with drinking tubes you can sip from as you hike.
The water you carry can easily be the heaviest thing on your back, so carry the bag within or on your pack so it is as close as possible to your back and higher up – that helps keep you balanced and puts the heaviest weight where it will cause less strain. If water is reasonably available on your route, a lot of hikers will compromise between frequent refills and weight by carrying around 2 quarts on them at most. But on a long arid trail, you might need to carry 2 gallons when you start out. You also need extra water when hiking at higher elevations to avoid altitude sickness arising from dehydration.
One helpful precaution is to start out your hike fully hydrated. If camping near water, drink a lot before heading out for the day – your body will appreciate it, and it’s that much less you’ll have to filter or carry during the day. We suggest drinking at least a quart or more before starting each day of hiking. I mix that first quart with Gatorade or other supplement to get its added benefits at the start of the day.
How do you know how much water is enough? As a general rule, drink before you become thirsty; it seems the thirst mechanism is behind the body’s actual need for water. It’s somewhat like your car’s red engine light – by the time it comes on, something has already been wrong for awhile. So drink as you go. Also, check out the color of your urine – if it’s clear, you’re probably well hydrated. If dark yellow, and you haven’t recently popped a bunch of pills, it means you need some more water inside you - drink up!
The basics of any overnight stay include 5 categories you need to cover in some form or another
Shelter - includes personal protective cover such as a tent, clothing and footwear
Sleeping gear - for most people, that's a sleeping bag and mattress pad
Nourishment - Food and water, and a means of filtering and cooking
Lighting - it's dark out there, so flashlight, headlamp, or lantern
Transportation - car, trailer, or a backpack
We rent a lot of what you'll need; see all of our rental gear as a good start.
After that, there's everyone's (different) version of the "10 essential items", especially if you'll be hiking away from camp or backpacking. Here’s our version, plus some second-tier suggestions to consider.
Map and compass, or clearly know where you’re headed.
It’s one thing to get lost with a map; it’s just stupid to get lost because you didn’t have a map in the first place. And now available are virtually idiot-proof GPS units. Take a map, compass and GPS if possible; a map if only one is available. There are now lots of communicate-back-home options as well in case of emergency - you may well be in cell phone range, or check out our SPOT Messenger device.
Carry enough water to last your entire trip or a way to treat water as you go.
Without enough water, your body just doesn’t work right. Go 3 days without food; you’ll lose some weight. Go 3 days without water, you’re toast. And taking in bad water is no bargain either, so be prepared; see our water filter rental options. For more tips and suggestions check out this page on wilderness water treatment.
Enough Food.
You can burn thousands of calories a day while backpacking, so carry enough food to at least keep you from getting weak. And have some extra in case of a detour, losing the trail, or an injury. Take a mix of carbs, protein and fat, and a variety of snacks to keep things interesting.
The right clothing.
The weatherman isn’t always right and whatever he’s saying rarely applies to higher altitudes anyway. Dress in layers of synthetic materials when possible. Avoid denim and cotton, unless you want to weigh 100 pounds heavier when wet. Carry at least a lightweight water-proof jacket if there’s any chance for rain. And most important - a good pair of shoes. More hikes end early due to blisters than for any other reason.
Lighter or waterproof matches.
Fires can save your life in cold weather and can help someone find you in case of emergency.
First aid kit/whistle/Advil.
Raid your own cabinet for supplies or you can buy a prepackaged first aid kit from us. Three blasts on a whistle will carry further and prompt help faster than any yelling will do. And when the mind is willing on Day 2, but the lactic acid in your legs won’t cooperate, try Advil or your favorite pain killer - works wonders.
Army knife or multi-purpose tool.
You can’t imagine how often you’ll use a good multi-tool on the trail - until you go out without one in your pack. Get a light one though.
Flashlight.
For finding your way in the dark and signaling for help. Renting a hands-free headlamp is best.
Sun/insect protection.
Otherwise you can fry your skin or hurt your eyes if you’re out all day in the sun, particularly at higher altitudes. Repellents can save you from the diseases that bugs carry and keep you from going crazy from the buzzing in your ears.
Attitude.
Remember why you’re headed out in the first place - to get away. The weight of your pack, the occasional blister, the rain - all temporary; soon forgotten. The memories of a good trip will last a lifetime.
And here’s 10 secondary things you should consider adding to your gear mix. You won’t die without them, but they can make a trip more enjoyable and comfortable.
Camera.
Lots of photo-worthy moments on the trail. Take a lightweight digital or phone so you can share photos with friends and family and prove you were there. Camera batteries outlast smartphones'.
Waterless handwash/Towelettes/alcohol.
Keep your hands clean, and you’ll be less likely to catch something nasty. Keep the rest of you clean, and you’ll feel better, sleep better, chafe less, and smell better to your partners. Trick - if no water is available for a mini-bath of sorts, take cotton balls; soak in alcohol from small dispenser, and use to clean your face, armpits and groin area.
Rope and Duct tape.
20' of small-diameter nylon rope doesn’t weigh much, but is handy for all kinds of things - hanging clothes, food away from critters, etc - and duct tape is useful for everything from blisters to tent repairs. Hint - don’t take a whole roll of tape; just unwrap a few feet and re-wrap around something you’re taking anyway, like your bug spray can or hiking pole.
Trekking poles.
Hiking poles are a great addition on any backpacking trip; well worth the cost. Help in balancing across creek crossings; taking pressure off knees going up and down hills; looks cool in photos! How to use?
Extra socks.
Nothing’s worse than squishy socks from creeks or sweat. Take 3 pair on long trips - one to start out the day with; one to swap out midday. Wash those two at night; start out with third pair next morning. Or alternate two pairs every other day and keep one pair clean for sleeping in. Hang others on pack to finish drying.
Fresh Fruit.
Heavy, yes, so take just enough to eat up first day out. But your body will appreciate the variety from freeze-dried food and energy bars you’ll have the rest of your trip. Dried fruit is just not the same.
Batteries.
If you’re taking electronic anything - flashlight or GPS, etc - take some extras.
Sandwich baggies/Trash bags.
Use to cover your pack or at least protect your sleeping bag if it starts raining. Also great to have to set your gear out on dewy mornings, and then later to carry your trash out. Sandwich bags are good to keep your small items together and to keep things that need to be dry, dry.
Gatorade/Tea/Coffee/sweets.
Gatorade or other electrolyte supplement is good on hot hikes as a continual light calorie source and helps keep muscles from cramping. Anything with caffeine is good in the morning to get you started for the day. And don’t worry about gaining weight on a backpacking trip - eat sweets fairly guilt-free, particularly while on the trail. The carb and sugar buzz will help you sustain energy, but too much sugar can get you nauseated - try to maintain a balance. If you're used to a low-carb diet, you can get away with mostly protein and fats instead, but on the trail is not a place to try a new diet.
Handwarmers.
Cool invention - just open and insert into your gloves on ice-cold days, or throw into your sleeping bag at night to add surprising warmth. We sell them here on this site.
As you can see, there are lots of choices to pack. It’s important to have enough with you to be prepared, but not take so much stuff that the weight of your pack becomes unmanageable. The shorter the trip, perhaps the more "luxuries" you can afford weight-wise to take with you. Your best insurance against packing too much is to weigh your loaded pack before heading out - weigh yourself with and without the pack; if your carrying weight is much more than 30 pounds for a weekend trip, start shedding. Some ultra-light fans would say anything over 20 pounds is too much, but there is usually some sacrifice in sleeping comfort or shelter the lighter you go.
If you’re a beginner and want some more suggestions, just enter "backpacking tips" into any search engine. You’ll see there’s lots of hikers out there willing to share ideas and experiences, or just give us a call at 866-994-4537 for additional advice.
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Gregory debuted some great new travel packs like this one with separate laptop and tablet sleeves plus plenty of room for everything you'll need for a few days on the road.
The coolest product of the day was Brunton's new hydrogen fuel cell charging device that fits in the palm of your hand. Not only will we be carrying these, we'll also be able to recharge your fuel cells in our shop!
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Definitely a busy but fun day here at OR. Already added a few new brands for 2014 and some items may be in our shop in the coming weeks. Some of the product highlights of the day were a really well though out backpack that includes a built in sleeping back stuffsack, a new 32oz bottle from HydroFlask, a backpacking BBQ grill, a headlamp that becomes a lantern, and an insulated travel bottle from Camelbak.
Clif Bar always has a great booth where you can try out bite sized samples of new flavors and old favorites from Clif Bars to Luna Bars to Builder's Bars to Shot Gels. As long as your route takes you past the Clif "Bar" there is no reason to run out of energy while running to appointments.
Camelbak introduced a new insulated, spillproof travel bottle that is very impressive. The new "FORGE" features a vacuum sealed, double walled, stainless steel bottle with push button drink valve that is held down to drink and then seals automatically. The bottle even sports a protective cap on the bottom to prevent damage to the weld point where vacuum bottles are vulnerable. Look for it in our shop this January!
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Out at Outdoor Retailer Summer checking out gear for next summer and a few immediate additions. Known as the Open Air Demo or Day Zero, today was a great chance to check out some new kayaks, canoes, SUP's, and more. The show begins in earnest tomorrow and I'm looking forward to finding some new and exciting brands to bring on board. Today's highlight was a hammock tent with the fly integrated into the hammock itself and even doubles as a bivy sack when needed.
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Always wanted to take a road trip around the country but never had the time? Now you can experience it vicariously through the writings of two of our great customers, Aleks and Vinnie as they travel the country in search of adventure and good food!
(Mt Greylock on the horizon)
The weather was pushing 100 degrees each day but fortunately Winter snow meant the streams were flowing well so staying hydrated was only an issue of scooping up some water and breaking out the SteriPen. My favorite day was day 3 where I had the pleasure of enjoying a nice cooling breeze while taking in the views from the Cobbles which included the town I would soon walk through, Chesire, MA.
(Chesire, MA)
The trail passes right in front of Diane's Twist so I stopped in for a made to order sandwich which I enjoyed while sitting at a picnic table under the shade of several trees alongside a rails to trails bike path. I then indulged in some ice cream, topped off my water and hit the trail. I had to catch a 4pm bus in Williamstown the next day, and the heat was definitely slowing me down so I decided to hike on to the summit of Mt Greylock in order to cut the distance for the next day and was able to snag a bunk at the Bascom Lodge.
It was pretty surreal to hike to the top of a mountain and find a full service restaurant and lodge but I definitely enjoyed myself. I arrived just after dinner was served so instead I entertained those who had driven up by preparing Mountain House Lasagna with my MicroRocket stove. Apparently it was dinner and a show as I was reminded of nature's beauty as I marveled at a sunset thunderstorm.
(Thunderstorm viewed from Mt Greylock)
For $35 I was given a bunk for the night with clean sheets, blanket, and pillow, as well as a towel and soap. Not exactly roughing it but I did hike up there. Being able to take a shower at the end of the day sort of reminded me of Partnership Shelter in Virginia. "Hiker Midnight" is not observed as most people simply drive here but I was still surprised to be the only one up before 7 am. I decided to wait for breakfast which is served at 8 am before hitting the trail. For $7 I enjoyed a fantastic plate of Eggs Benedict, freshly baked muffins, and coffee! It was like brunch in Park Slope but with better scenery. Mt Greylock is not only the highest peak in Massachusetts (3491 feet), but also features the state's Veteran's Memorial. As a veteran myself I was pleased to see such a beautiful spot dedicated to the sacrifice of those who served in the military. Mt Greylock is also said to have reminded Herman Melville of a whale breaching the water's surface as the author labored to complete his classic novel Moby Dick in nearby Pittsfield, MA.
(Massachusetts Veterans War Memorial Tower)
After breakfast it was time to head into Williamstown, MA. This section is basically downhill continuously and definitely wears on your knees. Trekking poles are highly recommended!
(Williamstown, MA)
There's a bit of a road walk as you pass through town.
Soon you reach a driveway that leads not to a garage but Vermont as you continue on the Appalachian Trail.
This meant the end of my hike so I headed into Williamstown, grabbed some pizza along the way, and was even able to take a quick shower at the Williams Inn for $7 (towel and use of pool, sauna, and shower) before boarding the bus for the trip back to Brooklyn. Hope everyone is getting out on the trail this summer and I can't wait for my next trip!
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